Ravi Tamada
Apr 27, 2023
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Needles, CA - Victorville, CA
Crossing the Mojave Desert
It’s gonna be a hot one today! Get ready for an exhilarating journey through California's Mojave Desert, the most sizzling and remote stretch of Route 66! Before you embark from Needles, stock up on water, snacks, and a full tank. Feel the thrill of the old “California or Bust” mantra, and imagine the daring 1920s and 1930s adventurers braving these harsh roads in early cars, sans air conditioning. Some even traveled under the cover of night to escape the scorching heat. Relish this authentic slice of Route 66, because as you dive further into San Bernardino County, the classic vibe fades into the bustling concrete expanse of the Greater Los Angeles area.
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Needles ➤ Amboy ➤ Barstow ➤ Victorville |
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202 miles / ~312 km |
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Pacific Standard Time |
Attractions - Get Your Kicks on Route 66
After leaving Needles, you'll arrive in Goffs. Here, a 1914 mission-style schoolhouse stands as the centerpiece, surrounded by a cluster of historical buildings lovingly preserved by the Mojave Desert Heritage & Cultural Association. Dive into the local lore with a visit to their small museum exhibition – just remember to call ahead, as they don't keep regular hours. It's a rare opportunity to glimpse into life in the desert, both past and present.
Further along, you'll encounter Fenner, a near ghost town with just a (very expensive!) gas station and a handful of tourist services. These little communities offer a poignant reminder of the ever-changing desert landscape.
Unfortunately, at this point, you can’t continue further on Route 66 as the road to Essex is closed. If we believe Google maps, the National Trails Hwy/Route 66 is supposed to re-open again in 2024, but nobody really knows for sure. So join I-40 West right here after the Fenner gas station and follow it for just over 28 miles to exit at Kelbaker Rd. (exit #78). Then turn left and head south towards Amboy.
Driving through an area dotted with remnants of its bustling past, including graffitied relics and faded billboards, you'll arrive in Amboy, a testament to the golden era of Route 66.
Amboy, CA
Amboy, California: A Route 66 Gem with a Story to Tell
Nestled in the heart of the Mojave Desert lies Amboy, California, a small town with a rich history tightly woven into the fabric of the legendary Route 66. Founded 1858, this once-bustling stopover, now a whisper of the past, holds tales of the golden era of American road trips, entrepreneurial spirit, and even a peculiar stint on eBay.
The Heyday of Route 66
Amboy's story is inseparable from the story of Route 66 itself. Established in 1926, Route 66 became the lifeline of cross-country travel in the United States, linking small towns like Amboy to the rest of the country. Amboy flourished as a popular rest stop, where weary travelers could refuel their cars, grab a bite to eat, and rest for the night. The town was a beacon of hospitality in the middle of the desert.
The Past… Roy's Cafe, Amboy, CA
Roy's Motel sign
Roy's Cafe today
Roy's Cafe: The Heart of Amboy
The cornerstone of Amboy was Roy's Cafe and Motel. Opened in 1938 by Roy Crowl, this establishment quickly became a hallmark of Route 66. It was more than just a place to eat and sleep; it was an oasis in the desert, a symbol of hope and rest for travelers on the long journey across the arid landscape. Roy's became famous for its distinctive Googie architecture and iconic neon sign, which still stands today as a nostalgic reminder of the past.
A Town on Sale: The eBay Saga
In a twist straight out of a modern Wild West tale, the entire town of Amboy was put up for sale for $1.9 million on eBay in the early 2000s. The listing included the cafe, motel, a post office, and even the town's gas station. This unusual sale caught the attention of media outlets and Route 66 enthusiasts alike. However, Amboy failed to sell on Ebay and was eventually purchased by Albert Okura, a businessman with a penchant for preserving historic landmarks, who bought Amboy for a reported $425,000. Okura's intention was to restore Amboy to its former glory, maintaining its historic charm while breathing new life into the forgotten town.
View of Roy's Motel, Amboy
Amboy Today: A Ghost Town with a Pulse
Today, Amboy is often referred to as a ghost town, yet it refuses to be forgotten. Visitors from around the world come to experience this slice of Americana frozen in time. While Roy's Cafe no longer serves up meals, it stands as a museum of sorts, a monument to the era of the Mother Road. The town, with its weathered buildings and its quiet Route 66 right in the middle, tells a story of a different time, a time when Route 66 was the backbone of American travel.
Amboy is more than just a stop on a map; it's a journey into the past, a testament to the enduring spirit of Route 66, and a reminder of the ever-changing landscape of American travel and culture. In the silence of the Mojave, the story of Amboy lives on, whispered in the desert winds that dance through the empty motel rooms, swaying old curtains through open windows, and around the iconic Roy's Cafe sign.
Just a stone's throw from Amboy lies the Amboy Crater, an extinct cinder cone volcano that's been designated a National Natural Landmark. It beckons adventurous souls for day hikes. Just be sure to come prepared - water and sun protection are musts, and keep an eye out for rattlesnakes in this rugged yet mesmerizing landscape.
Amboy Crater
Driving westward from Amboy on the historic Route 66, the road leads travelers through an area that was once home to the town of Bagdad. Today, Bagdad has vanished, leaving no physical trace of its existence. Its only claim to fame is its connection to the original Bagdad Cafe, which opened in the 1940s and shut its doors in 1968. This establishment lent its name to the current Bagdad Cafe located in Newberry Springs, keeping a piece of the town's legacy alive.
Continuing along the Mother Road, amidst a scattering of abandoned structures, Ludlow emerges in the desert landscape. Way back, Ludlow used to offer a few functioning amenities including a cafe and gas station, providing a much-needed respite for travelers journeying across the desolate stretch of Route 66. Today, the remnants sit quietly as ruins, seemingly waiting for someone to stop by and hear their stories of bygone better days.
Note: the original road between Ludlow and Newberry Springs is VERY ROUGH. If you want to do yourself and your suspension and wheels a favor, pick up I-40 West right here and exit again at Exit #23, Fort Cady Rd, and then continue into Newberry Springs.
Very rough road section between Ludlow and Newberry Springs
For those with a curiosity for natural wonders, a short detour to Pisgah Crater offers an intriguing side trip. Located just south of Route 66, Pisgah Crater stands as a testament to the volcanic activity that once shaped this region. This cinder cone volcano, though dormant, presents a striking sight against the backdrop of the Mojave Desert, adding a touch of geological intrigue to the journey along America's iconic highway.
Nestled along Route 66, Newberry Springs holds onto a few remnants of its past, including a former Whiting Bros. gas station. Despite its small size, Newberry Springs attracts a noteworthy crowd, particularly European travelers, drawn to its famous Bagdad Cafe. This cafe is not just a pit stop but a piece of cinematic history, having been the filming location for the 1987 German film "Bagdad Cafe" (or "Out of Rosenheim" as it's known in Europe) starring Marianne Saegebrecht.
Bagdad Cafe, Newberry Springs
The Bagdad Cafe in Newberry Springs, originally known as the Sidewinder Cafe when it opened in the late 1940s, became an icon after the movie's release. Interestingly, the film was named after the long-gone original Bagdad Cafe, and in a twist of life imitating art, the Sidewinder Cafe changed its name to align with its newfound fame. The movie, shot entirely along Route 66, offers a unique lens through which to view this legendary road, making it a recommended watch for those embarking on the Route 66 journey.
Moreover, the impact of "Bagdad Cafe" extended beyond the big screen, inspiring a short-lived American TV series in 1990, starring Whoopi Goldberg and Jean Stapleton. Today, the Bagdad Cafe in Newberry Springs continues to welcome travelers, serving as a tangible link to Route 66’s storied past and its unexpected intersections with global culture.
Daggett offers a glimpse into the historical allure of the Old West. The town proudly preserves several historical structures, including the Stone Hotel, built in 1883 and now serving as the town history museum. Open mostly on Saturdays, it's advisable to call ahead if you plan to immerse yourself in Daggett's past.
Right at the heart of Daggett, the Desert Market, established in 1908, still operates, offering a tangible piece of history. While Alf's Blacksmith Shop, dating back to 1890, isn't open to the public, it stands as a silent witness to the town's bygone era. The remnants of Ma Millet’s Cafe also add to the town's rustic charm.
Desert Market in Daggett, CA
Barstow brims with eclectic attractions and is a should-visit town. As you cruise through, you'll notice a blend of operational and historic Route 66 businesses, alongside eye-catching vintage neon signs and evocative street murals that tell tales of the past. For auto sign aficionados, Tom’s Certified Welding and Machine Shop offers an impressive collection worth exploring.
One of Barstow's crown jewels is the Casa del Desierto, a former Harvey House hotel and rail depot from 1911. This architectural gem now serves as the Barstow Chamber of Commerce and Visitors Bureau, the Route 66 “Mother Road” Museum, and the Western America Railroad Museum, each offering unique insights into the region's history and the legendary Route 66.
For those interested in the broader heritage of the Mojave Desert, the Mojave River Valley Museum is a treasure trove of local history. Meanwhile, the Desert Discovery Center adds a celestial touch, housing the second-largest meteorite in the USA, and promoting awareness of the fascinating desert ecosystem.
Beatifully restored Amtrak train station, Barstow, CA
Just outside Barstow in Lenwood, Route 66 enthusiasts can still find remnants of the era's iconic businesses. These time-honored establishments offer a glimpse into the past, keeping the spirit of the Mother Road alive.
Helendale, once the stomping ground of the legendary "Sagebrush Annie," holds a fascinating piece of Route 66's colorful history. In the 1920s to 1940s, Annie's tourist complex, which included a gas station, cafe, dance club, and possibly a brothel, was a buzzing hub along the highway. Today, the stone Sage Brush Inn that she once ran stands as a private residence, a silent sentinel to a bygone era.
Sagebrush Annie's Saloon
A short drive from Helendale, visitors can encounter Elmer Long's Bottle Tree Ranch – a striking and whimsical display of folk art. This unique collection features trees adorned with colorful glass bottles (amongst other objects…), creating an otherworldly and visually stunning landscape. Although Elmer Long sadly passed away in June 2019, his artistic legacy along Route 66 continues to captivate travelers. Visitors are welcome to explore this roadside attraction, but it's important to respect the private property and the memory of the artist who created this enchanting space. As the future of the Bottle Tree Ranch remains uncertain, each visit becomes a precious opportunity to experience a piece of Route 66's eclectic charm. Should the ranch not be open, you can still take a few great photos across the fence.
Elmer's Bottle Tree Ranch, Oro Grande, CA
Traveling along Route 66 between Helendale and Oro Grande, one stumbles upon a relic of the past, the Iron Hog Saloon. Nestled in a building that dates back to the 1890s, originally a trading post and the Butterfield Stage Stop, this historic biker bar and restaurant (21+ only) has been a silent witness to the changing times. Notably, it served as a backdrop for iconic scenes in the movie "Easy Rider". Though currently closed after a fire in 2018, whispers of its reopening stir excitement among Route 66 enthusiasts.
Oro Grande, a stretch filled with historic buildings from the Route 66 era, offers a quaint glimpse into the past, despite many businesses having shuttered their doors. A beacon of nostalgia here is the Route 66 Antique Station, an intriguing antique store that remains a bastion of the bygone days, still welcoming visitors at the time of the last update.
As you venture into Victorville, the spirit of Route 66 is palpable with numerous businesses from the era still standing. A highlight of this historic town is the California Route 66 Museum, a treasure trove of memorabilia and stories from the Mother Road. Sadly, the museum faced a setback in January 2018 due to vandalism and robbery, making it all the more important for travelers to visit and show their support for this important preserver of Route 66's legacy.
Update: as of Jun 03, 2024 Delvin Roy Harbour, the heart and soul of the Route 66 museum, retired after a 12 year long period as volunteering docent at the museum.
Downtown Victorville & Route 66 Museum
Also Worthwhile / Detour
Calico
If you’re into old mining towns, take a 5-mile trip north via Daggett-Yermo Rd. As you pass under I-15 (don’t forget to drop into Peggy Sue’s right before the underpass!) it turns into Ghost Town Rd. which leads up to Calico, a former silver mining town turned ghost town, now reborn as a captivating tourist destination. Here, history comes alive amidst structures dating back to the late 19th century, complemented by modern replicas crafted to mirror the old-world charm. Calico offers an array of experiences: from dining in vintage-style restaurants, browsing through quaint shops, to gunfight stunt shows and insightful mine tours.
Liberty Sculpture Park
Right next door to Eddie World is an open-air museum that has been getting the attention of travelers along I-15. If you’re planning to detour to Calico or eat at Eddie or Peggy Sue’s Diner you may want to check it out.
In 2017, a band of friends led by Weiming Chen, a sculptor originally from China and a vocal opponent of Chinese communism, acquired 36 acres of desert land adjacent to the I-15 freeway. They named this stretch Liberty Sculpture Park, intending it as a symbol of the universal yearning for freedom and a strong statement against the oppression under Chinese communism. The park, designed to be visible to the myriad of motorists on the interstate, invites artists globally to showcase their works. For the moment, however, it primarily features Chen's sculptures.
The inaugural sculpture, titled "The Origin of Freedom Number One: Chief Crazy Horse," was unveiled on December 11, 2017. Accompanying this sculpture is a plaque bearing a powerful message: “This sculpture was the first erected in Liberty Sculpture Park, manifesting a tacit truth: Freedom shall not be dictated by any people.”
The park allows for a drive-through experience, offering visitors an intimate view of the statues, including the park's name displayed in a Hollywood sign-esque manner. Positioned towards the rear of the park, near the freeway, these sculptures stand as silent sentinels of liberty.
However, a stark reminder of the park's ethos greets visitors at the entrance: a sign stating, “WARNING: No Communists Allowed.”
Dining Recommendations
Here's a full and detailed list of great places to eat along the way. The blue “thumbs up” dots state our top recommendation(s).
PS: since we don’t know when you’re feeling peckish, we have included an “along the way list” - pick your poison…
Ludlow |
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Ludlow Cafe: Discover a slice of Americana at this unpretentious cafe in Ludlow. Dishing out classic roadside fare such as juicy burgers, hearty sandwiches, and scrumptious homemade pies, this cafe has a rustic Western charm. While the original cafe from the 1930s now lies in ruins, the current establishment, dating back to the 1970s, has been serving up comfort food to travelers for decades. 🏠 6835 Ludlow Rd |
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Newberry Springs |
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Bagdad Cafe: Step into a piece of cinematic history at the Bagdad Cafe, a staple of Route 66. Famous as the filming location of the namesake movie, this cafe has become a must-visit for American road food enthusiasts, especially popular among French tourists. Originally the Sidewinder Cafe from the 1940s, it offers a nostalgic dining experience. 🏠 46548 National Trails Hwy |
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Yermo |
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Peggy Sue’s 50’s Diner Your best bet for a decent meal in a quirky surrounding. Peggy Sue's is an original roadside Diner, built in 1954 with 9 counter stools and 3 booths. It sets in on the shadow of the Calico Mountains and was built from railroad ties and mortar from the nearby Union Pacific Rail yard. Today Peggy Sue’s is a must-stop for any traveller in the area, now offering way more seating than the original configuration. 🏠 35654 Yermo Rd |
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Eddie World As the newest kid on the block, Eddie World is California’s largest gas station featuring 3 fast-casual restaurants, serving fresh sandwiches, salads, sushi, chicken tenders breaded on site, gourmet burgers, unique fries, and pizzas custom crafted by you that are ready in 90 secs. Seriously, their food is absolutely to die for, even though it’s a self-order/pick-up setup. Furthermore, indulge in homemade ice cream, Peet’s Coffeeshop, homemade popcorn, premium Jedediah’s Jerky, and the cleanest restrooms on I-15. They also offer the largest selection of candy, nuts, chocolates, dried fruit, and sugar-free candy you’ve ever seen – literally! 🏠 36017 Calico Rd |
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Barstow |
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DiNapoli’s Fire House: Dive into the world of Italian cuisine at DiNapoli’s, where pizzas, pasta, and seafood are served in a unique fire station-themed setting. This family-run establishment, operational since 1994, offers a cozy atmosphere with a touch of nostalgia, perfect for lunch or dinner with a side of history. 🏠 1358 E. Main St |
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Roy’s Cafe: Roy’s Cafe brings a slice of the 1930s to Barstow with its retro American diner vibe. Serving a mix of classic American and Mexican dishes, from juicy burgers to hearty burritos, it’s a spot where every meal feels like a step back in time. Inspired by the original Roy’s Cafe in Amboy, this eatery, which opened in 2017, even boasts a similar iconic sign. 🏠 413 E. Main St |
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Rosita’s: Blending Mexican warmth with American casual dining, Rosita’s has been a family affair since 1954. Located in a former grocery store, it’s renowned for authentic Mexican dishes, offering a taste of tradition in every bite. 🏠 540 W. Main St |
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Victorville |
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Emma Jean’s Holland Burger Cafe: A genuine Route 66 treasure run by the Holland family since 1947. This diner oozes old-fashioned charm and serves classic American dishes, with breakfast and burgers being the stars of the menu. Plus, a scene from “Kill Bill” was filmed here! 🏠 17143 D St |
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Richie’s Real American Diner: Step into the 1950s at Richie's, a diner that combines retro style with modern American comfort food. Known for their delectable breakfasts and smoked BBQ delights, it's a journey back to the golden era of diners. 🏠 14236 Valley Center Dr |
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Paulina’s Mexican Grill: This upscale yet casual grill serves an enticing fusion of American and Mexican dishes, from sizzling fajitas to sumptuous steaks. Vegetarian-friendly options are available, making it a great spot for both lunch and dinner. 🏠 4845 Monarch Blvd, Suite G |
Hotel Recommendations
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Holiday Inn IHG The Holiday Inn Victorville is conveniently located right off Hwy 15 and close to Route 66 which will give you easy access to your destination. The non-smoking hotel features refrigerators in every room along with 42-in flat-panel HDTV. The business center is available 24 hours and stays connected with free Wi-Fi. Take advantage of the complimentary fitness center, and then relax in the Olympic-sized swimming pool. End your day in the in-house restaurant serving American Cuisine with vegetarian options available. |
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Hilton Garden Inn Victorville The Hilton Garden Inn is located in the Heart of the High Desert and is a great choice for a stay in Victorville. The restaurant is the perfect spot for a bite to eat, and after having fun at the outdoor pool, you can unwind with a drink at the bar/lounge. A 24-hour fitness center and a spa tub are offered, and in-room conveniences include refrigerators and microwaves. Fellow travelers love the helpful staff. |
Congrats! You have successfully mastered Day 12 of Route 66.
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A complete link list to Route 66
DAY 1 | Chicago - Springfield
DAY 2 | Springfield - St. Louis
DAY 3 | St Louis - Springfield
DAY 4 | Springfield - Tulsa
DAY 5 | Tulsa - Weatherford
DAY 6 | Weatherford - Amarillo
DAY 7 | Amarillo - Santa Fe
DAY 8 | Santa Fe - Gallup
DAY 9 | Gallup - Winslow
DAY 10 | Winslow - Williams
DAY 11 | Williams - Needles
DAY 12 | Needles - Victorville
DAY 13 | Victorville - Santa Monica
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